Abbie Wright
Permanent Eyeliner Instructor
There are various similarities and differences between Permanent Makeup and Body Art Tattooing.
First off, any form of permanent makeup is considered a tattoo. There are two ways to implant the pigment into the skin when it comes to permanent makeup. One is by way of a hand tool, also referred to as SofTap. Microblading would fall into this category as well, since microblading means hair strokes done with a hand tool. The other way permanent makeup is implanted into the skin is by machine. With either method, pigment is being implanted into the skin and is thus considered a tattoo.
SofTap is a technique done by using a hand tool with differing number of needles at the tip ranging any where from 3 to 114. The tool is placed on the skin and then almost flicked, or lightly scratched into the skin.
Microblading is also done with a hand tool that typically ranges from 9 to 14 needles placed in a row to allow the artist to create hair strokes by gliding the tool on the skin creating an almost papercut-like incision. (See left photo)
Permanent makeup done with a machine is most similar to body art tattooing, however, there are differences. Most permanent makeup artists use rotary machines, and most tattoo artists use coil machines. The basic principles are the same – pigment is being placed in the skin by a needle. How those machines are different is that coil machines are able to hit the skin with more force than a rotary machine. Rotary machines are made for more delicate areas on the body, such as the face.
Another difference is that permanent makeup artists use pigments, while tattoo artists use inks. The difference between inks and pigments lies on the molecular level. Pigments are made with smaller molecules, and the reason for that is it allows our body to break down those pigments over time. This means you can expect fading because the permanent makeup you want today may not be what you want 3 or 5 years down the line. So, the smaller molecules present in pigments naturally provides gradual fading, allowing you room to change up color or shape as trends change or your desired look changes.
Permanent makeup artists also don’t go as deep into the skin as tattoo artists do. Permanent makeup artists are just barely entering into the epidermis (the top outer-most layer of the skin). This is why we generally don’t see much, if any, bleeding when working on our clients. This is also another reason why you don’t get the same longevity from permanent makeup as you do from body art.
Although we can use the same needles that tattoo artists use – and some of us do, depending on the work we are doing or the look we are trying to achieve – we also use a range of needles most tattoo artist do not. We can use a single needle that is so thin and delicate that when you push on the tip of the needle, it will bend. It is referred to as an acupuncture needle. Many permanent makeup artists use these needles to do full lips, ombre brows, hair stroke brows, and eyeliner. Using this type of needle allows us to achieve that pixelated look that, when healed, looks very soft and natural – ideal for what we as permanent makeup artists are trying to achieve these days.
So, despite the many differences between permanent makeup and body art tattooing, like tools used, pigments vs. inks, needle choice and depth in the skin permanent makeup is still technically considered a tattoo.
Interested in learning more about a career as a Permanent Makeup Artist? Contact us!