Do I Color Correct or do I Remove PMU?

As a permanent make up artist, I’m sure that all of you have experienced this question at least once in your career. Whether you just started two months ago or have been doing this for years, it is very common to have clients come into the salon with previous work done asking if you can fix it, make it better or completely start over. Fortunately, times have changed, techniques have improved, there is better training now than there ever has been before, and a lot of the time we are able to fix previous work regardless of how bad it is. Of course if we are able to correct previous work without removal, this is going to be the quickest option for your client to receive their desired results. Unfortunately covering up another artist’s work isn’t always easy. Is it the shape that they don’t like? Is it the color that they don’t like? Is it the technique that was used that they don’t like? There are so many variables as to why someone may not like their permanent make up. I recently had a client reach out to me who said that she wanted her brows removed because the artist who worked on her created a brand new brow shape when all she wanted was to fill in her natural shape. She told me that her new brows were beautiful and the artist did an amazing job but that she did not recognize herself with her new brows and that she wanted her old shape back. So like I said, there are many reasons as to why someone may not like their brows and it’s your job to understand what it is that your client does not like about their brows. This will give you a clear indicator for what you need to do to fix their brows. 

When deciding to take on a color correction you first need to know a couple of things:

1. Does your client like their shape? If yes, then a color correction would be perfect for this client unless their end goal is to lighten their brows. If your client has the shape they like but don’t love the color, a color correction would be perfect!
2. How dark/saturated are your client’s brows? You will most likely only be able to cover low saturated areas. If their brow color is Ebony/ grey/ purple in color and as a result would like to be a lighter brown, a color correction would not complete the job. Remember that we can only add color, not take away.(unless choosing to remove PMU first). 

Can I remove & correct? 

Yes! First, correct your clients color & shape (if workable). This gives the client the opportunity to have a more flattering set of brows sooner. Second, Wait at least 8 weeks, then remove what you need. Remember to only do a removal when necessary. You cannot color shift due to high saturation so the best option in this case is removal. I personally recommend removing at least 50% of pigment out of skin before correcting. As an artist you will need to make that judgment call. When you feel, at your skill level, that you are able to correctly color shift and cover up your clients brows, you may proceed. 

At the end of the day, of course we want to help every client that walks into the salon, but first you need to have the education and practice before doing so. Only take on clients that you feel comfortable completing procedures on. If you feel that it is out of your skill set, I would recommend your clients to an artist who is able to help them. I personally was so sad to have to send clients out of my door and to other artists to fix their work, because I wanted to help them so badly. That is why knowing how to color correct and remove it’s such a staple in an artist education. I love being THAT Artist who has the answers. Remember to stay up-to-date with your education, there’s always so much to be learned!